Pamplemousses, Port Louis, Cap Malheureux: which northern day tour?

There are six land tours leaving from the north in my catalogue, and four of them are alike enough that guests regularly ask me which to take. They all go through the Pamplemousses garden and an old sugar mill. The difference lies in what they do in the afternoon — and that is what should decide it.

The two stops everyone makes

The Pamplemousses botanical garden is one of the oldest in the world. You walk it for a good hour, in the shade, past the giant water lily ponds and rare palms. It is the stop my guests mention most on the way back — including those who do not particularly care for gardens.

Sugar World, or L’Aventure du Sucre depending on the tour, occupies the old Beau Plan sugar mill. This is where you understand what cane did to this country: slavery, indenture, the waves of migration, and the society that came out of it. Rum and speciality sugar tasting at the end. The estate restaurant, Le Fangourin, serves lunch on several of these tours.

After that, it all comes down to the afternoon

Four tours share the same morning. Here is what separates them:

• Pamplemousses garden, Sugar World & Port Louis, from 119 €. The afternoon drops down to the capital: the Citadel for the view, then the central market and Caudan Waterfront, with free time.
• Port Louis, Sugar World & Pamplemousses garden, from 119 €. The same content in reverse: you start with the Citadel and the market in the morning and finish at the botanical garden around 5.30pm. Better if you struggle with heat in town in the afternoon.
• Pamplemousses, Sugar World & Cap Malheureux, from 119 €. No capital: the afternoon runs up to the northern tip, the small red-roofed church facing the islets, then free time in Grand Baie.
• Pamplemousses, L’Aventure du Sucre & Grand Baie, from 119 €. Same northern route, but lunch is at your own expense: you pick your table in Grand Baie and pay on the spot. That is deliberate — Grand Baie has food for every budget, and I would rather let you choose.

My rule: if this is your first stay in Mauritius, take the one that goes through Port Louis. The capital is like nothing else on the island, and half a day at the central market will teach you more than three days on a beach. If you have been before, or cities tire you, take the Cap Malheureux version.

The two short formats

Not everyone wants to give up a whole day.

Pamplemousses garden & Sugar World, from 72 €, half a day. The two essential stops, without the rest. This is what I suggest when only a morning is free, or when you are travelling with children who will not last eight hours.

Port Louis & Trou aux Cerfs crater — city tour, from 34 €. The cheapest thing in my catalogue. The capital and the Curepipe crater, no garden, no museum. For anyone who wants to see the city without giving it a full day.

A few things worth knowing

Port Louis is shut on Sundays. The central market does not run and the city is empty. None of these tours depart on a Sunday, but if you are organising your own day, keep it in mind.

The central market on a Saturday morning is the liveliest of the week. It is also the most crowded. Up to you which you are after.

Bring closed shoes. The Pamplemousses garden runs to several kilometres of paths, and the old mill has metal flooring.

These tours run by shared coach, with a guide. Pick-up and drop-off at your hotel. Tell me where you are staying and I will check the route passes your way — not all of them cover every area.

And if you are staying in the north

You are in the right place: all six of these tours leave from your side of the island. Pamplemousses is twenty minutes from Grand Baie, Port Louis under an hour.

If you have not chosen your hotel yet, I have set out the differences between Grand Baie, Pereybere, Trou aux Biches and Mont Choisy on each village page. And for the wider view, there is my guide on what to do in the north of Mauritius.